12 May 2016

Silja & Mads toe up socks - FREE KNITTING PATTERN

This pattern is the same pattern as the Silja & Reggie toe up socks.
I chamged the name to make it easier to pronounce in Norwegian.

 PDF download here.
Print friendly PDF here.

Intermediate Level. This pattern has been designed for students who have little or no experience of knitting socks. Some of my students have very little experience of knitting and need hands on help, so this pattern is not recommended for beginner knittings.

This is the text heavy version of the pattern, with a few photos and external links to video demonstrations. All technique videos are here, so if you want to, you can prepare before you start your first sock.

All the knitting techniques used in this pattern are demonstrated with photos and illustrations on the print friendly version and images and video on all other versions. For other versions (PDF, print friendly and large format/mobil friendly) click this link.


80cm circular needles, or longer, for Magic Loop knitting.
Size 5mm, or the size needed to achieve a gauge of 17st x 22 rows = 10cm x 10cm stocking stitch

100g Aran weight yarn.
If using 1 skien, divide it evenly into 2 x 50g balls.
For longevity, use a yarn with some nylon,
For variety, use triple stranded 4ply/sock yarn, or 1 strand DK 1 strand 4ply/sock yarn.
Recommended yarn - Odin by Viking of Norway

1 stitch marker
Darning/tapestry needle

Glossary of terms and abbreviations:

st = stitch
K = knit
P = purl
M = make a stitch** (increase)
P2tog = purl 2 stitches together (decrease)
SSK = slip, slip, knit (decrease)
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together (decrease)

**I use KFB (knit front back) increases in all my socks. I have written this pattern using M1 because using KFB can confuse the stitch count for those who prefer using other types of increase methods.


Part 1 - Cast on and increase (video)

Cast on 16 stitches
Use Judy's Magic Cast-on or the Turkish Cast-on method.

Rnd. 1, Knit all stitches, and every other round.
If any of the stitches are twisted, knit into the back of these stitches.
Rnd. 2, K1, M1, K6, M1, K1
Rnd. 3, knit all stitches.
Rnd. 4, K1, M1, K8, M1, K1
Rnd. 5, knit all stitches.
Rnd. 6, K1, M1, K10, M1, K1
Rnd. 7, knit all stitches.
Rnd. 8, K1, M1, K12, M1, K1

There should now be 32 stitches, 16 on each needle.

Part 2 - Find the right length

Attach the stitch marker to the fabric on the front side of the sock. This will be the sole of the sock.

Knit until the sock is the required length.

Measure the length of your foot. Subtract 10cm. This gives you the length the sock needs to be when you strat to increase for the gusset. Here's a table.

Part 3 - increase for the gusset.


Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K14, M1, K17
Rnd. 2, and every other round, knit all stitches.
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K16, M1, K17
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K18, M1, K17
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K20, M1, K17
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K22, M1, K17
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K24, M1, K17
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K26, M1, K17
Rnd. 1, K1, M1, K28, M1, K17

There should now be 48 stitches - 32 on the sole side of the sock and 16 on the other side.

Part 4 - Turn the heel
If you know how to work short rows and how to Wrap & Turn, you can skip ahead to Work the Heel.

To create the shape of the heel, we need to work short rows. This means knitting part of the row and then turing the work to knit back again. If we just turn and continut to knit, there will be a hole in the work. To avoid this, we simply wrap the working yarn around an unworked stitch. This is called a Wrap & Turn.

How to Wrap & Turn - knitwise  (video)
Slip a stitch purlwise (from the left hand needle to the right hand needle). Bring the yarn forward to the front of the work and slip the stitch back onto the left hand needle. Then, take the yarn back and turn the work.

How to Wrap & Turn - purlwise (video)
Slip a stitch purlwise, (from the left hand needle to the right hand needle) bring the yarn forward and slip the stitch back. Take the yarn back and turn the work.

Work the Heel
On the sole side of the sock,
K23, Wrap & Turn (video)
P14, W&T (video)
K13, W&T
P12, W&T
K11, W&T
P10, W&T
K9, W&T
P8, W&T
K7, W&T
P6, W&T

With the right side of the work facing you there should now be 8 unworked stitches and 5 wrapped stitches on each needle + 6 regular stitches on the left hand needle. See photo illustration.

Now we need to pick up the wraps.

K6, pick up the 5 knit wrapped stitches, turn the work. (video)

P11, pick up the 5 purl wrapped stitches, turn the work. (video)

Part 5 - the heel flap

Here's a video showing how to work P2togEye of Partridge and SSK.

Eye of Partridge. For the fabric at the back of the heel, we use a combination of slip stitches and knit stitches. This creates a thicker, more durable fabric. This method is sometimes called Eye of Partridge(video) 

SSK & P2tog. SSK stands for Slip, Slip, Knit. Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 purlwise, then knit the two slipped stitches together through the back of the stitches. This decreases by 1 stitch on the knit side of the work, and we use P2tog, purl 2 together, for a decrease on the purl side of the work. (video)

Always slip the first stitch.
Then *knit 1, slip 1 purlwise. (video)
Repeat from * 7 times (14 stitches), then work an SSK, (video).
Turn the work.
Slip 1 purlwise, P14, P2tog (video).
Turn the work

Repeat these two rows until you have 18 stitches left on the sole/heel side of the sock.

Repeat the knit row one more time, ending with an SSK, then K16, K2tog, (video) K31.

Now the heel is complete and there should be 32 stitches, 16 on each needle.

Part 6 - the ankle

The ankle of the sock can be knitted in 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib or 3x1 rib, or it can be knitted in stocking stitch with a rib border.

If knitting stocking stitch, knit until the sock measures approximately 32cm (according to personal preference, see photo), then start the rib.

Knit the rib until there is 180cm of yarn left. This is how much yarn is needed to cast off.

Use a loose cast off, like the Russian cast off. Here's a video on how to cast off and a tip on how to finish.

Your first sock is complete!

This sock measures 32cm before the 2x2 rib starts.

For strips like these, start after the toe increase and alternate with a contrasting colour every other row. 

For longer socks, increase by 2 - 4 stitches every 10cms.

These socks have contrasting rib. 
These were knitted with three starns of 4-ply/sock yarn.
Two strands of Silja by Gjestal and one strand of Kaffe Fasset Design by Regia.
The pattern is named after these socks.

One strand of Dale Free Style, one strand of Trysil Eventyr

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